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Dif Sheets
New Floors For Extensions
Some types of extension, such as light¬weight sunrooms, conservatories or kitchen extensions, require only a plain ground slab; the only dif¬ference is that you will need a damp-proof membrane under the slab and probably a screed (not essential if you can directly finish the concrete to the required surface during construction). The DPM should be laid so that it comes up around the edges of the slab.
If the extension is substantial enough to require strip or trench-fill foundations, build the walls up to DPC level. Prepare the soil between the foundations exactly as for a ground slab: some filling will probably be needed. Lay a DPM as a tray linking into the DPC of the walls. Con¬struct the floor slab as for an outdoor ground slab - using the walls as form-work and exposing the aggregate during finishing. Lay the screed when the exten¬sion is finished.
Putting the floor into use
When an impervious flooring material such as vinyl tiles, lino or carpel bonded with adhesive is to be used, allow the floor to dry out thoroughly before covering it. Otherwise the floor covering is likely to lift. A drying period of a month is recom-mended for each 25mm of floor thickness: for a 100mm slab with a 50mm screed this means nearly six months before adhesive-bonded flooring can be laid (mortar¬ bedded concrete or quarry tiles can be laid after a couple of weeks). The drying-out time can be reduced by placing the DPM between the slab and the screed, but this increases the risk of screed failure; in any case the thicker screed required (at least 60mm) means waiting 2-1/2-3 months.
A well-laid screed of good mix propor¬tions should be strong enough for use within a couple of weeks of laying. Mean¬while, sheets of plywood or hardboard laid over the surface will protect it. During the drying-out period do not drag furniture over the surface. Open-textured rugs or matting can be used to protect the surface from foot traffic. Minor damage which cannot be covered with a self-levelling compound can be made good with mortar.
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You might also be interested in reading how to clean concrete floor and also how to install resilient flooring in your bathroom
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Can I paint over wallpaper that is half taken off?
I wanted to paint my bathroom and got all the right tools (scourer, scraper, dif, etc) to get the wallpaper off my walls and none of it worked. I googled and searched other alternatives such as fabric softner with hot water, vinegar with hot water, etc and nothing is working. I have a pretty decent sized bathroom and I am on day 3 and have only gotten maybe a 5 x 2 section done. I am so frustrtaed and fed up with this whole process and not seeing any results that now I just want to paint over it. The edges and corners are coming up so I was wondering if I pulled up what was already lifted and spackled in between the cracks of where the wallpaper sheets meet and sand down everything, including the spot where I was working and pulled up the wallpaper could I paint over it if I primed it first? I wanted to paint it a very light pastel blue and the wallpaper is not texture. Or because I've already started and pulled some off do I have to continue even though it's going to take me a month!
You can, but you will see the difference in the wall unless you apply texure over it. (Which is easy and looks good) If you decide to paint over it you'll need to get as much off as you can, then get a sealer like Peel Stop. It is a clear primer that basically glues down the edges of peeling wallpaper or paint. That way you won't have chunks peeling off later.
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