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Bear Kit
Eclipse Body Kits That Make your Mitsubishi Eclipse Stand Out
There are some vehicles that bear trusted names. These are brands like Mitsubishi, Toyota, Ford and Dodge among the many cars. While these cars are well known and trusted they all bear a strong resemblance to each other (those in that particular car series that is). To make your Mitsubishi Eclipse stand out you have interesting Eclipse body kits that you can purchase.
These Eclipse body kits have varying prices that depend on the type of model, year and the parts that you are going to buy. You will also have to factor in the installation and painting costs when you look around to buy one of these kits. As with lots of other car kits which are readily available in the market, the Eclipse body kits have a wide range of parts, kit types and even accessories that you can use.
To help make certain that you have access to the best performance value parts the dealers who sell these brand name body kits will have an excellent aftermarket support system. You can also ask these dealers for help when you are looking to find Eclipse body cars that are suitable for customizing your car with.
To gain an idea of the many different parts that you can purchase you should look in a number of different car body repair shops as well as car customizing dealers. From these places you can see what parts are to be found in the Eclipse body kits and what sort of price range you can expect to pay for buying and installing one of these kits.
You will find a vast range of various Eclipse body kits that you can see about buying. There is also the possibility of mixing and matching these various kits to produce a unique looking car. You will find lots of interesting styles that have been created for these different body kits for the Eclipse.
There are rear wings which can be placed on the rear of the cars. These wings are bold in appearance and they are available in varying looks. The attachment process for these wings is also different and based on the type of wings you choose.
You will find some of these body kits for various Eclipse body kits to have a partial fit on. This partial fit on simply means that the part in question was placed over the OEM existing car part. There was no need to remove the original part prior to installing the new body kit parts. There are also full body work attachments that you can consider having for your Eclipse.
Like so many different cars that are out on the roads the Mitsubishi Eclipse is one that many people drive. Yet when one of these many different Eclipse body kits are placed on your usual car you can be sure that you will be noticed. You have the distinction of being a unique driver from the rest of the crowd.
About the Author
Muna wa Wanjiru is a Web Administrator and Has Been Researching and Reporting on Car Kits for Years. For More Information on Eclipse Body Kits, Visit His Site at Eclipse Body Kits
Upgrading Iron 883 with the 1200 bore kit. How important is it to get the cams?
I know i am getting the pistons and the heads, but how important is it to get the cams as well? And what will i get as far as performance if i do get the cams?
Email me through my profile with some more info so I can make some recommmendations.
WHAT HEADS ARE YOU GETTING????
AND
WHAT DO YOU WANT THE ENGINE TO DO......HIGH SPEED HP OR MID-RANGE TORQUE????
If you are going to that extent, cams will make a difference like you would not believe....they ARE worth the expense!!!!
In order to tell you what cams will work the best, I need to know what heads you are getting. Screamin Eagle has a couple very good cam grinds, but Andrews makes even better cams and Red Shift is the BEST on the market.......... A GOOD SET OF CAMS WILL COMPLIMENT THE 1200 CONVERSION GREATLY.....about 10-20 hp....depending on the total engine combination.
Also ......THIS IS CRITCIAL!!!!!!!!!!..........YOU MUST HAVE THE ECM REMAPPED!!!!.......You NEED to have the Screamin Eagle Super Tuner installed.......if ALL HD screamin Eagle parts are being used....a base map from the Super Tuner will get you by "ok".....BUT....in order to get the most out of the engine, it should be dyno TUNED!!!!......if ANY after market parts are being used....it MUST be dyno TUNED....the maps in the Super Tuner are designed specifically for Screamin Eagle Products and will not perform properly when combined with aftermarket parts.
Another option for tuning the injection is a Power Commander, however, the Power Commander alone does not off the tuning capabilities the the Super Tuner offers, the Power Commander does not allow for any type of timing and rev limit adjustments that the Super Tuner has built into it. In order to do any timing changes with a Power Commander, you have install a separate module and you still can't change the rev limit, the only way to do this is to have HD install a Stage 1 download into the ECM before the Power Commander installed.....then you still HAVE to have it dyno TUNED in order to achieve the proper air/fuel ratio in every rpm range and throttle position.
If the bike is an 09 or newer, the Power Commander 5 with wide band O2 sensors and the AUTO TUNE MODULE added to it will self tune itself as you ride, but you still need a Stage 1 download to raise the rev limit.
Here is a XR1200 that I just did recently.........I had the heads ported with oversize valves, hi-flo guides, radius valve job, 10.5:1 compression, cnc ported throttle body, Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner, RedShift Cams, and modified STOCK exhaust, all with a Screamin Eagle Super Tuner modified ECM. This was actually one of the easiest bikes I ever tuned....it put out 112hp @ 6700rpm and 108 ft/lbs of torque @ 5900rpm..............these measurement are taken at the WHEEL...not the crank.....and are higher figures than a STOCK HD 103" Big Twin.............
Here is some info on injection tuning from another question, it is in reference to a Big Twin, but the principles are still the same.......
DO YOU HAVE A HI-FLO AIR CLEANER AND PIPES ON THE BIKE???.....IF SO, DID YOU HAVE THE ECM REMAPPED BY HD OR HAVE A SUPER TUNER OR POWER COMMANDER ON IT????...........THIS IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
HD'S ARE SET UP TO RUN VERY VERY LEAN DUE TO EPA REGULATIONS!!!!!!! RUNNING LEAN CAUSES THE ENGINE TO RUN HOT!!!!!!........THERE ARE OIL JETS THAT SQUIRT OIL ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE PISTON TO COOL THE PISTON.....THIS HEATS UP THE OIL..........RICHEN IT UP, THE PISTON WILL RUN COOLER....THE OIL WILL RUN COOLER.
Even if the bike is COMPLETELY STOCK.......have HD do a Stage 1 download to the ECM......if you have a Power Commander or Super Tuner on the bike..........get it dyno TUNED.....it will increase your performance and make the engine run OPTIMALLY..................here is some info about "downloads compared to the Super Tuner.......
You want the Screamin Eagle SUPER TUNER!!!!.......and have it Dyno TUNED.....don't sttle for just having the base map loaded. The difference between being tuned and a base map is like night and day. The base maps are just that...a base to which to work form. Every engine is as individaul as we are as humans, they each require a little finesse and tuning to make them perform optimally. The Super Tuner will also allow for easier tuning for any future upgrade you may make.
A Stage 1 download is nothing more than a GENERIC map from HD that is "ok" for all bikes....this is CRAP!!!......the Stage 1 download was specifically made for a HD with Screamin Eagle Mufflers and Air Cleaner......not all mufflers (or complete exhaust systems) flow exactly the same and not all Air Cleaners flow exactly the same...meaning, if you change ANYTHING on the exhaust and intake that the Stage 1 was not designed for, it wil not work as well.....like I said every engine is DIFFERENT.
As far as power output goes....it will vary as to what components are used and how well it is tuned....but on an average from completely STOCK to an upgrade of exhaust/air cleaner, super tuner, about 12-15 horsepower........
Here are my recommendations for oil.........
As much I love HD....I hate to say it, but HD doesn't know SH*T about synthetic oil. For decades, they said not to run synthetic in their engines.....because of popular demand by the public, HD finally came out with their SYN3 synthetic oil several years ago, but it is honestly not worth a crap. THE BEST 3 SYNTHETICS FOR A HARLEY ARE
#1-AMSOIL, #2-LUCAS, #3-MOBIL1(which is recommended by S&S). I have been working on HD's and building performance engines, drag racing and dyno tuning for 20 years and have been running Amsoil for years, but have recently switched over to Lucas because it is just as good, but a little cheaper. AND THEY DO NOT AND WILL NOT VOID YOUR WARRANTY
FIRST OFF.........DO NOT RUN HD SSYN3.....IT'S JUNK.........I AM A CERTIFIED HD TECH, AND I WILL TELL YOU FIRST HAND....HD DOESN'T KNOW JACK ABOUT OILS!!!!!!!!!
For deacdes, HD said to never run synthetic in their engines, their reason....it will cause the bearings to "skate".........but ask anyone on the drag strip running a top fuel 800+ HP engine what they run.......FULL SYNTHETIC.......their bearings don't skate!!!
By popular demand of the public, HD finally released their SYN3 back in the early 2000's......manufactured by Sunoco. SO........
Second......why would you WANT to go longer between oil changes?......esprcially on an Ultra, the baggers are subjected to to more engine strain than the other models due to their weight, plus they run hotter from not as much aie flow, that's why they have a larger oil tank to aid in cooling. FRESH OIL IS CHEAP INSURANCE AGAINST ENGINE FAILURE. Standard oil you should change every 2500 miles. You CAN go about 3500 on synthetic, but why? Scheduled PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE set by the factory are based every 2500 miles, IT IS BEST TO CHANGE YOUR OIL EVERY 2500 MILES....SYN or STD. Keeping up on the maintenace, prevents major breakdowns. It's btter to spend $400 or so a couple times a year than spend a few thousand to repair something that was caused by lack of maintenance.
As the other guys have said, synthetic does make your engine run cooler and lubricates much better than standard oil.
The best synthetic to run is 1) AMSOIL or LUCAS 2) Mobil 1
It is ok to run the same synthetic in the primary as you do the engine.......but NEVER use that same oil in the trans. HD says you can, but it makes the trans hard to shift and noisy......run minimum 75/90 gear oil......best if its 85/140......the absolute hands down best trans oil on the market is RED LINE full synthetic Shockproof 85/140...it will make your trans runs smoother, quiter and shift easier.
At how many miles did you start running synthetic? You should never run synthetic until at least 2500.
Which Power Commander was installed....the O2 eliminator or the new PC 5 w/ wide band O2 sensors? The WIDE BAND IS THE BEST fuel contorller on the market for Big Twins), did you have the separate ADJUSTABLE IGNTION MODULE AND/OR AUTO TUNE MODULE(09-NEWER)installed also....this will HELP ALOT!!!!....the HD Super Tuner is good, but it runs narrow band O2 sensors (i like these for Sportsters because there is no module to install and conceal).....BUT it does have ignition adjustments the PC doesn't have by itself (have to add it extra with the PC5).
Either way, it sounds like you need to have the bike properly tuned....if they just simply loaded a map....that is NO GOOD...a map is just a starting point for proper tuning.
You air cleaner...did you mean BIG SUCKER???...if so good choice.....the Screamin Eagle air cleaner is way better than stock HD.....but does not hold a candle to the DEEPER K&N filter Ness uses......GOOD CHOICE.
EDIT FOR MATT ABOVE.........it is common knowledge that an 883-1200 conversion .....
1) is CHEAPER than a stock 1200
2) makes more power in the lower and mid rpm range than a stock 1200 due to variances in the heads and gearing
3) 883's are cheaper on insurance than 1200's
Bear Grylls Mini Survival Kit
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